TL-WR810N

The gadget is really well packed with plastic film on the sides (just like the packing used for most smart phones).Out of the box, if you want to use it as an Access Point to feed a device such as Amazon Fire TV Stick you can just use it straight out the box.Plug your network into the 100Mbps WAN/LAN Port and plug it in. The default login and password are on a label attached to the device and it also has a WPS button should your client device support it.I may be in error but what point is having WiFi speeds of up to 300Mbps if the physical ethernet ports are only 100Mbps?So in my humble opinion, the maximum Wifi data transfer speed you are going to get is only 100Mbps which of course is fast enough for any video streaming but may be a bottleneck if you are copying large HD video files on your local network.If you want the IP subnet to be the same as your home network, some manual configuration will be required, by default the unit gets the address of 192.168.0.254 and I guess for security can only be accessed from the output side (full details in the manual which can be downloaded from the makers site)Note, the manual says the login is admin and password. This is wrong, the login name and password are both adminSo after manual setting into Access Point mode my one has a static IP address of 192.168.0.10 with my router on 192.168.0.1In this mode it uses 1.4watts of power so if on all year it will cost you under £2.00 in electricity.The laptop I am writing this review on is using the device and as one would expect with no apparent issues.The WiFi speed reported by Windows is 300Mbps but the TP-Link Gigabit Switch it is being fed from only indicates a 100Mbps connection (it is on Port 20 on my screen dump).If only it had Gigabit Ethernet ports....One last feature worthy of mention is the USB port which is rated at 1 Amp for charging a device or for a USB storage device to share on your network.

Long story short.Currently done have a broadband supplier, so using an osprey port wifi device.I bought a Philips hue bridge and some lamps to have a play with, on my amazon dot.On getting the hue bridge you need a wired connection to a router, no chance there, so searched for a way to do this. Came across these devices on some US forums, so I thought I would give this a try although I was a little worried about setup looking at some iinfo on the net as I needed one in client mode it appears.This device in its standard setup can extend your wifi signal, so you would plug this in half way to where you want to be from your wifi and it would connect to your wifi then repeat the signal within its range thereby extending the range.I needed to connect a wired device, the hue bridge to my internet.There is a lot of info on the web about configuring these and although I am not stupid, it looked a bit daunting, So i bought this and upon receiving to my delight I saw it has an actual switch not a software switch to put the unit into different mode, brilliant, so a quick connection to my pc via Ethernet, type in the address of the unit it has an inbuilt 'web config page' within 5 minutes I had set it up in client mode, introduced it to my wifi, so I will now connect my hue bridge and hopefully set that up with alexa.There are quite a few of these available, I just went for the highest model number but you can get self powered usb versions.They are mainly used in US hotel rooms on wired internet point to give a wifi signal to that connection for phones and tablets, I dont think the UK has so many hotels with wired connections, we were a bit slower and having internet available it started as a signal in reception only but now there tends to be a broader wifi signal.But there are still many devices that need a wired connection.

let me start off by saying when you finally get this device working, it works as intended.I bought this because the flat that I'm renting has only one telephone socket in the kitchen, so my modem (with built-in WiFi) needs to go there. All my wireless devices can access the internet, but my PC and a few other wired devices can't, because I don't want to drag an long ethernet cable from my kitchen to the rest of my flat. So I bought this intending to use it as a "bridge" between my Wireless network and my Wired network. This can be done by setting the TP-WR810N device into "client" mode, then plugging one end of an ethernet cable into the TP-WR810N and the other end into my router, which has the rest of my wired devices connected and voila, all my wired devices are connected to the wireless network via the TP-WR810N and have a solid internet connection.It took me about 2 hours to get this setup and the TP-LINK support was useless, so I had to figure out the problem myself - this is why I've given the rating of 3 stars.... very bad customer support and no "plug-n-play" for my situation. If it wasn't for the bad customer support, who after 45 minutes finally said I need to ship this TP-WR810N device back and get a replacement, because mine is faulty, and the fact that it didn't work the first time, I would have given this device 5 stars.The issue I had will most likely only affect other BT customers in the UK with a Smart Hub that has the "smart setup" function enabled. It's that screen you see when you connect a new device to the BT WiFi going through the setup to choose if you want parental controls and some other things before it will let you access the network/internet. After messing around with the settings on the TP-WR810N device and the settings on my router, I finally decided to look at my BT Smart Hub modem and turn off the "smart setup" function - as soon as I did that, everything started working.So bottom line, if you have a modem that requires some sort of setup for first time connections, then this won't work out of the box - you'll most likely see a redirect loop in your browser. Otherwise, I'm sure this will work out of the box for you.