Sea Foam Motor Treatment Fuel & Oil Additive, SF16, 16 oz

I somewhat recently bought a 1983 Volkswagen Vanagon With the 2,0 litre aircooled engine. I went to clean the ERG valve recently and found that it was clogged all the way with just greasy sooty gunk from the exhaust so im guessing my car has not had much of a cleanout ever and the erg filter is likely rusted out but nonetheless I knew that i could quickly and easily clean it out whereas a new erg filter costs a hundred dollars or more. I bought two bottles of Seafoam Motor treatment because its an add on item and that way i could get the discounted price without adding anything on. For my purposes I found it easiest to pour the seafoam into the hose that attaches to the auxiliary air valve as this was easy to remove and fed right into the junction past the Mass airflow sensor. The brake booster would have been more troublesome despite many people recommending it. I Believe you should just look at all the air hoses leading into the manifold of your car and choose which both won't change the way the engine runs and is easy to pour into which in many cases is the brake booster hose. I warmed up the engine so the auxiliary air valve would not be needed for engine operation, and then I had to cover the majority of the open and exposed end of the hose so the engine would not be choked by too much air, then Its a matter of putting the right amount of Seafoam in so that you don't choke it that way either. At this point you will begin seeing white smoke come out of the exhaust. This is a sign that the seafoam is burning and working properly so continue until you've used nearly a third of the bottle. I actually had trouble killing the engine at the end when you are supposed to pour enough in to kill it so I just shut off the ignition after dumping a lot in at the end. I waited about 10 minutes for it to all soak in and then restarted the engine. I let it run for a little and then began a slow drive around the neighborhood in a low gear to run the engine quickly but not too fast. This created the most smoke by far which is good because that meant it soaked well. Once the smoke stopped or slowed significantly I shut the engine off and checked in the ERG valve hole on the manifold once the engine cooled. I Could not find any more of the greasy black gunk so It worked! The rest was split between going into the fuel and the oil to clean out injectors and galleys and I plan on an oil change soon as a result. Great product does what it says it does and my engine is running much smoother now likely due to a more even mixture in a no longer impacted manifold. I also recommend watching a youtube video on how to do this, it helps to see the things I'm talking about.

I bought this under the guidance of my Smog Technician to clear up a high NOx rating for 15mph. I have a 1998 Honda Civic EX VTEC, 5 speed. The past 15 years, the car has always passed smog with flying colors (usually, all the numbers are 0 or close to it). This year, the car passed everything fine with the same record, except NOx at 15 mph. Reading online said that this is the place to fail if your car is going to fail. Prior years, the number was 50, with a max limit of 480 or so. This year, it went up to 780. So, I bought seafoam and, unlike a lot of other people, my car hardly smoked at all. I baby my car usually (short shift, cruise at 60-65, easy on the gas and brake and clutch) all in the name of gas mileage. With only an intake, exhaust, and headers, I average into the mid 40's for gas mileage average, when the EPA for the car is 25/33. I'm not sure if this is something to do with my car getting old and the Catylitic converter is getting bad, but after Seafoam, the car registered a barely pass of 460 out of 480 max. For those of you who wonder, I added the seafoam through the brake booster vacuum line. This, from what I have been told, is good for a quick fix and to pass smog. I later dumped the rest of the can (2/3 left) into the gas tank. Its hard to notice, but I believe the car idles a bit easier (no gushing kind of noises). Could be cleaning the injectors. Whatever the case, I passed smog and plan on using this the next time I go in for a smog 2 years from now. I read a lot of forums online and there is great debate over seafoam. It took me a while to buy it, but it worked. 5 Stars! Worst that happens is you put it into a car that is held together by carbon deposits and your car leaks. If you car leaks oil already, or you believe it has the possibility to with engine cleaning, don't buy this. But if you have high NOx or other figures, this is is a good buy to pass smog. Heck, once you pass smog, it doesn't matter anymore for 2 years. Cheap investment/safety net for your car.

We have a small-engine mechanic who turned us onto SeaFoam motor treatment -- and against most gasoline preservatives and treatments. He said he'd drained, or seen inside, thousands of gasoline tanks, and the stuff sold as gasoline storage additives was often still there, sitting as gel on the bottom of the tank. Just gunk. He also said most brands of engine treatment weren't worth the money. However, he swore by SeaFoam, which I'd never tried at the time, and my experience since has proved him out. I've had many rough-running engines find their power and performance again, with nothing different, but a shot of SeaFoam in the gas tank (and the crankcase). We own a number of vehicles and equipment with small engines, from a compact backhoe, to a ride'em Husqvarna mower, weedwacker, chainsaw -- and on the larger size, a Honda SUV and Ford F150 pickup. All of them have benefited greatly from the regular use of SeaFoam. However, when we're running the road vehicles a lot, especially in the summer, we go through gas and don't necessarily add SeaFoam with every fill. Recently, the Ford began to run rough. It stalled as I pulled up to corners and lights. In the past, that would have meant a mechanic and an expensive tune-up. All I did was go for a fill-up, and started by adding a full can of SeaFoam. Problem solved, just like that. The Terramite (made in the USA) backhoe is not used a lot -- and as with most motors, that is a problem. It's bad for an engine not to run it -- and especially, in most cases, for it to sit with gas in the tank. The backhoe has a Kohler Command 25-horse gasoline engine that powers the hydraulics that run the wheels, steering, front-loader, and backhoe. I change the spark plugs each season, but it, like my Stihl chainsaw, and 6500 watt backup (gasoline) generator, and for that matter, all the small engines, can be hard to start after a hiatus. And even when they get going, they'll run rough. I used to drain the tanks frequently, then run them dry, then fill again before use, and hope for the best. But SeaFoam has changed all that. Throughout the summer, I can leave treated gas in the tank, and have little problems with starts or rough running. In the smaller equipment, I dose the gasoline with each fill (1 oz per gallon), as SeaFoam cleans both carburetors and full injection systems. It is good for gasoline and diesel engines. Added to your crankcase (1.5 oz per quart of oil), it cleans deposits and quiets noisy lifters. These days, most gasoline is mixed with ethanol and that's a bad thing for small engines. Ethanol goes hand in hand with water -- and as we all know, water in the gas is anathema to motors. Again, my small engine mechanic told me, 90% of the no-start problems he had to deal with were caused by ethanol-caused water in the fuel system. SeaFoam actually controls moisture and prevents this problem. It also de-ices and is anti-gel. In my opinion, when it comes to gasoline and diesel engines, large and small, SeaFoam is THE Silver Bullet. My equipment is often running, while my neighbors are running with theirs to the shop. I've told many about SeaFoam, but some people seem to want to do it the hard way. By the way, I also swear by PRI-G fuel additive for long-term gasoline storage. I keep 100 gallons of gas in tanks for emergency use. We are in a rural, wilderness area. I was introduced to that by survival expert, Steve Harris. He said he's had gasoline that was 10 years old still run equipment, because he'd added PRI-G to it (you can buy here on Amazon). Of course, you have to remember to add more PRI-G each year -- that's the catch. So our rule of thumb is, PRI-G for long term fuel storage -- and SeaFoam for month to month. Also -- this price is right! Of course, when you compare the cost of equipment breakdown, and having to take anything to a mechanic, this is almost free. However, apples to apples, this price is cheaper than Walmart -- and up to $4 cheaper per can than many auto supply and hardware stores. Can't say enough good things about this product! Highly recommended.

This is a well known product and works as advertised! I LIKE IT!

Seafoam is a great product. My concern is the quality control of cans coming out of the factory. Both my cans arrived with dents and there was absolutely no damage to the package. Will not affect the product inside. Looks like the Seafoam manufacturer needs to review quality control. UPDATE: With succeeding order, can quality was perfect. As for the product itself, yes, I think it is useful in small engines. For example, my power washer (probably 20 - 25 years old) ran rough when I started it for the first time at the beginning of the season. Even if you care for the gasoline properly, after a number of years, residue can form and it doesn't go anywhere. I put a heavy dose of Sea Foam in the tank -- use the washer for the day -- then, it'll sit for days. Next time I start it, after the carb soaks in the SF, there is no doubt I can hear a difference. I also use it once a season with a cleaning dose in my garden tractor, push mower, string trimmer, and leaf blower. I don't use it in vehicles; I use top tier gasoline which has more detergent than the basic required blend. I don't buy non-top tier gasoline if I have a choice. Yes, there is a difference. Don't confuse octane rating with top tier. Do yourself a favor and Google "top tier gasoline." And, I drive 9.5 miles to a station for non-ethanol gasoline for the small engines. Use non-ethanol and you won't have to use a stabilizer except for storage. Most small engine problems are gasoline related. Once the problem develops, you're screwed. Take care of the gasoline and you're taking care of the engine. A local small engine dealer told me they use Star-tron for cleaning almost all engine carburators brought in that won't start. You can keep them clean by using at least some kind of stabilizer instead of paying for repair.

Best engine treatment in my opinion, you can put it in the oil or straight in the gas tank

I like it as It is not much more then their flagship product stabil and can clean deposits and remove moisture from ones fuel system . Moisture should not be much of a problem anymore though because ethanol mixes with water . The bad news though is gas with ethanol does pickup water where in the old days it sat on the bottom of the tank with other contaminents . It is the contaminents that circulate in tanks nowadays this helps rid your fuel system of . If nothing else it makes me feel better to use it . I put it in all gasoline for all equipment and vehicles in my household especially that which is seasonal . Update April 30 , 2013 . I swear my truck is running much better . Almost like brand new after dumping 32 ozs in the 32 gallon tank and running it through . Now I am putting in one can . My friend tried star brite star tron gasoline additive and swears by it . That is a little cheaper and you use 1/3 per gallon . I may try it but I can honestly say I am very pleased with this 70 year old additive that has consistently cleaned fuel systems , preserved gasoline and kept gas from separating from ethanol that picks up water . I am not one to spend money on frivolous items that do not produce . Sadly I do not drive enough miles to do a fair millage test but I would be interested if anyone has had a improvement . My friend on the star brite claims it adds about 1 to 2 mpg . I wonder if seafoam has any similar benefits ? In todays world that difference defers the cost a considerable amount . It will be hard to even try something else I have been so pleased with the Seafoam however . Still running as of 12 15 14 with great results did buy a 32 oz bottle of star tron which I am pushing through the cars now . Will know more in a few months though everything had a bottle of Sea Foam this fall . God Bless .

I'll keep this brief, as there are countless other reviews that have shared positive experiences about this product. I too have had a similar experience, and it has improved the engine performance of my aging Mitsubishi Galant. My vehicle has 212k miles, and is 15 years old (2001). I didn't necessarily have any major issues I was trying to fix or repair, I just wanted to clean things out and prevent something from occurring. I added the fluid via the vacuum line, but when I started this project I had no idea how I was going to accomplish this task. I don't have a shop with fancy tools, in fact, I'm lucky I have tools to do half the shtuff I do. In order for me to accomplish this, I needed a hose, or a drip line of some sort to feed the liquid. My mechanic buddy (doesn't everybody have one of these?) recommended that I get the Berryman B-12 kit (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002KKIM8/ref=cm_cr_ryp_prd_ttl_sol_4). This kit provided the drip line and attachments to complete the job. If anything, this review is to tell you, get that kit as it will save your Saturday! And be prepared for the biggest mushroom cloud of your life. I thought my car was on fire, I mean seriously, I looked like an old steam engine train going down the neighborhood, I even had a car pull over honking his horn and pointing as if I couldn't tell that I was being chased by the stay-puffed marshmallow man! Car is running very nice now. Otherwise, yada yada yada, rainbows and unicorns. This stuff is awesome! Get that kit